Desert Trek

Camels groaning in protest, a blanket of star studded sky's, the ripples of sand dunes, a perfectly rounded fireball that dominates the sky, and good home cookin over an open fire. Words cannot describe the effects the desert can have on a human being. It surrounds you and engulfs you and makes you experience its power entirely. It is difficult, effortless, simple, and complex all at the same time. It's one of my favorite places I've been in the entire world. The Thar Desert overwhelmed me. It gobbled me up, chewed me up, spit me back out and somehow left me wanting more. It's the most honest place I've ever been. There is no hiding or manipulating its beauty, what you see is what you get and the product is exhilarating.

We started our 3 day camel trek with little to no expectations. If we have leaned one thing so far that is India always takes you by surprise and you can't expect anything. What you get is what you get and you just have to somehow find humor in everything. Our English friend Gordon gave us the best advise on our first night in India. "You cant take anything for granted!" We didn't realize how much truth was in those words until we experienced India for ourselves. So we left our hotel not knowing where we were going to sleep that night or what we were going to be eating for the next 3 days. Our only request was that we didn't want the typical tourist camel safari. With Jaislamer city in the rear view mirror, we glanced at each other, crossed our fingers, and with a smile said a little prayer.

The car ride into the desert was interesting. Our driver was flying down the winding roads occasionally slamming on the breaks to go over a random speed bump or honk at a crossing herd of goats. There was nothing but wide open desert sprinkled with a few mud huts and a couple of unfinished Indian construction projects. It seemed like there was no end in sight until we quickly slowed down and took a hard right onto the desert floor. After we stopped we were instructed to grab our packs and exit the car. I took one look around... there were no people, no cars, and only one camel in sight. Without question we followed our Indian driver up over the sand dune which revealed a couple more camels, 2 western tourists, and taa-daaaa... our camel master. Things looked hopeful as we got excited about spending 3 days with some fellow English speaking adventurers. We mosied down, gave a quick introduction and despite refusal, were forced to sit in the shade away from the other tourist couple. I felt as though I was in time out. We then realized the British couple was just finishing their desert trek and it was just going to be us, the camel master, Johnny Walker, and Mr. Rocket for the next 3 days. Joy, joy. A couple of blankets and a small box of food were tied on to our camels, we mounted with no instruction and away we went.

After about 10 minutes of strolling into the unknown (and EVERYTHING was still unknown at this point, even our nameless camel master) I came to realize it was going to be a long 3 days if I was already feeling a burn in my inner thighs. Thank God our camels were considered "small". With no conversation at all we stopped once at a nearby village well to get some water and then we were left with the desert silence and the occasional camel (or Kendrick) fart. A couple hours into our journey our camel master finally spoke. Eureka! And he spoke in English too :) He asked us if we like the sand dune we were crossing. Well yes we like the dune, it looked like every other sand dune we had seen. Well if we liked the sand dune then here is where we will set up camp. When we said here he meant it and we dismounted and waited for instruction. After a few minutes of waiting we were told to go gather firewood. Confused Kendrick and I just looked at each other. I don't know if you have ever been to the desert but collecting firewood is not like at home in Maine. Our camel master pointed his finger and we obeyed. I was collecting some small sticks that were hallow and so dry you could snap them with a flick of a finger. I looked over and of course Kendrick comes over the sand dune with a huge trunk of a tree that still had waxy green leaves on it. We Americans always have to do things the biggest and the best. Little did we know the fire we were making was only a single flame, enough to heat a single pot propped up by 3 sandstone rocks. Sadly Kendricks great find was of no use.

We ventured off exploring and playing in the sand while our camel master prepared dinner. Once we were by ourselves I was really able to let the enormity of the sand dunes over take me. The landscape was utter perfection and completely untouched. We hadn't seen another human being all day, which I thought was impossible in India. We felt like children seeing snow for the first time. We were jumping all around, throwing the silky smooth stuff in the air and even making sand angels. Everywhere you looked you saw the picturesque ripples and folds of sand and you felt like you were the first person to ever walk on them. It was as though we found this new undiscovered, untouched land that man had yet made his mark in. Our footsteps were the first to disrupt the perfect ripples. That probably wasn't the case but it was fun to let our imaginations run wild.

We let the spicy aromas of Indian food lead us back to "camp". We huddled around some warm ashes while we watched our camel master finish the veg curry, fluffy white rice, and mouthwatering chapatti. I admired the simplicity of his cooking and the minimal ingredients it took to make such flavorful food. I was inspired watching him cook as he was filled our ears with the sob stories of how hard Indian life was. It was ironic how he only needed two thousand more rupees to pay off his friend for his new camel. And it was even more ironic how he needed to pay him in 2 days or he lost everything he had ever worked for in his life. He continued and went into detail about the generous tips he had received in the past from western tourists. Kendrick and I know these Indian tactics too well so we followed his story with how we were working really hard to find a job back home so we can save money to build a house. We were young and struggling also so we knew how he felt. His sob stories ended right there and we were relieved we didn't have to endure the lies for 2 more days. We ate our delicious Indian food with our fingers (right hand only of course) while we watched the huge sun sink into the dunes. Before we knew it we were covered by a blanket of stars and the brightest moon I had ever seen. There was no need for the flashlight I had tucked into my jacket pocket. We layed out our blankets on the sand and there was nothing between us and the desert. No structure, no tent, no protection. We let the desert sky engulf us and hypnotize our minds into a peaceful sleep.

Day 2 was exhausting and the desert sun along with the heat got the best of us. We plopped ourselves in yet another sand dune for lunch and tried to get what little shade we could behind a tumble weed. Our final destination was the most famous dune in all on India, the Sam Sand Dune. There was nothing special about Sam's sand dune. It was full of noisy Indian tourists, trash, overworked camels, and relentless heckling Indian children. We prefer the natural, off the beaten path scenery so Sam Sand Dune was not for us. We opted to stay in the desert again turning down the tented resorts set up everywhere. Our camel master informed us it was going to be very cold that night and we would NEED his extra blanket so he was going to stay in a nearby resort. So we found ourselves laying in the sand again with nothing between us and the desert sky. Only this time we had wild animals to worry about and 2 camels to look after. The camel master was right, it was cold that night but it felt refreshing to us. We awoke to the sunrise and millions of unknown animal tracks that lead to our blanket, then back out into the desert. When we asked our camel master about the tracks he chuckled and informed us that we were visited by some jumbo black beetles, a desert fox, and an antelope. Oh wonderful! I'm glad we fully immersed ourselves and become at one with nature. At least there were no signs of snakes, the one recommended item to bring (wool socks) must have scared them off :)

Time to relax :)

Pushkar is a quite little town nestled in a valley in Rajasthan. The town didn't greet us with a full to-do list, we actually weren't even sure why we were going at all. But much to our surprise (which seems to be the trend in India) we enjoyed what little it did have to offer and we found a great place to eat, a couple mountain top temples to trek to, and some energetic monkeys to play with. Lets just say we had a lot of time on our hands to just... well... relax. And boy did it feel good. We read some books, devoured the best food we have had yet in India, and enjoyed each others company. We are off to the Thar Desert next and we are both looking forward to meeting our camels that we will have 3 days to bond with. I'm sure we will have some great pics to post along with a funny story or two. I hope there is a strong camel that is up to hauling Kendrick around for a few days :)

Udaipur

Udaipur is a real gem. Our time here has been as flawless as the scenery. The Indians are more welcoming and less heckling and people tend to smile more which has been a rarity so far in India. It's amazing what a little natural beauty can do for your soul. We are eating good food, getting a good nights sleep, and taking in a couple deep breaths of fresh air. We have finally experienced the great power of a true Indian sunset and its perfection repeats itself every night. It truly leaves you speechless and its impossible to stop smiling. The happiness that overwhelms you is so intense that we are finally reminded why we wanted to spend 4 months in this part of the world. Who knew it would be a simple sunset that would make us feel at home and at ease in this hectic country.

We also made our first step into mother nature. The city was wearing on us and we were desperate for a little exercise amongst the wildlife. We couldn't find any trekking companies so we ventured out on our own. We looked into the horizon, picked a mountain with a structure on the top of it and went exploring. We climbed the mountain on the steep zig zagging path that led to a quaint little Hindu temple on the top. This temple was no bigger than 12'x12' and it housed a 365 degree panoramic view of awesomeness. There were no tourists and men and women of all ages, children, goats, and chickens were making the climb to pray in this tiny temple. Their devotion and dedication was inspiring and they welcomed us despite knowing we were not Hindu. We descended the mountain so happy we almost had the giggles. This spirituality, whatever it is, is contagious and we are embracing every second of it.

Ooo la la... The Taj Mahal

I really didn't want to go to Agra, but who goes to India for 4 months and doesn't see the Taj Mahal. I mean, it is one of the 7 wonders of the world. So I was mentally preparing myself to be ripped off for 2 days just to snap the same picture every tourist takes marveling the architectural perfection and immaculate symmetry of the Taj Mahal. How great could it be? So I had my expectations, they weren't the greatest, but at least I wasn't going to be let down.

We arrived in Agra. Much to our surprise (wink wink) the driver that was supposed to be picking us up decided he didn't want to wait for our 5 hour delayed train and we were stranded. Well not stranded literally, but traveling on a budget we didn't want to pay for another rickshaw when one was included with our hotel. So we decided to make a call and wait... and wait... and wait. Finally, an old man emerged from a sea of Indian men persistently yelling to us to ride their rickshaw for "cheap price." The man held a glorious sign that said "Mr. Kendrick John". Thank heavens! It was the most refreshing sight I'd seen in 24 hours. So we hopped into the taxi and away we went. Of course the taxi driver didn't bring us to the right hotel but at this point we didn't care. Kendrick and I are still in survival mode at this point in our trip, and food and shelter were a necessity. We got our shelter and then our food and got royally ripped off in the process. Welcome to Agra. We plopped our exhausted bodies on the bed and regained our focus to the soul reason why we came to Agra... The TAJ.

Agra blessed us with one great sight on our arrival... the sun! Of course India had to have record cold temps and a never lifting thick layer of fog when we decided to journey half way around the world to see it's beauty. Our bodies were craving the sun's warmth and vitamin D. We thought we would go to the Taj Mahal in the afternoon in hopes to get a glimpse of our first Indian sunset.

We arrived at the gate of the Taj after fighting through begging children trying to sell us snow globes for ridiculous prices. I found humor in the Taj Mahal snow globes cause it never snows in Agra. There are only so many ways you can present the image of the Taj so I commend them on their creativity. Once in line to get our tickets I found myself cringing again while looking at the pricing board. 25 rs for Indians, 750 rs for foreigners. We have been spending about 750 rs a day for both of us to eat, shop, and travel around the city. Hey at least we got a free water and shoe covers :)

I have to admit after completing the security check I was feeling a little spark of excitement. The Taj Mahal and all it's hype blew my expectations out of the water. When it came into view it left me speechless and probably with an open jaw. It was stunning and perfect and it really did seem as though it was floating on clouds. It actually didn't seem real at all. It looked more like an enormous canvas painting that was hanging from the heavens. Wondering if other people were having the same experience I was I took a look around. One woman was in tears (Ok, maybe I'm being insensitive but its not that overwhelming). I checked myself back to reality and decided I should be a tourist and take some pictures. Kendrick and I strolled down the mall closer to the Taj stopping frequently so Indian tourists could take their picture with us. We climbed the white marble stairs of the Taj, took one loop around, and found a nice sitting place to watch the sunset. I was pleasantly surprised and completely at ease. The Taj Mahal took its toll on me and did a job well done.

Varanasi

Varanasi is an unbelieveable place. It's so peaceful, tranquil, and spiritual. It takes over your mind, body, and soul. You dont have to be religious to feel the energy and aura of Varanasi. There are crazy things taking place all around you but everything seems normal, it seems right. Bodies burning, naked pilgrams bathing, people taking thier morning dump, all within yards of each other. But nothing seems out of place or distrubing. Kendrick and I are staying in a hostel that overlooks a cremation ghat. We are constantly surrounded by smoke, ashes and the smell of burning wood and bodies. There are hundreds of bodies a day being burned within yards of us and yet it doesn't phase either of us in the least bit. It's actually kind of refreshing, revitalizing, and calming.

Varanasi is just what we needed after the stresses of Delhi. It has completely turned our trip around and has put us in a great state of mind to continue our journey. We needed a great eye opener and Varanasi was the perfect treatment. Next we are off to Agra to fight through the tourists to sneak a peak at the Taj Mahal. Until then...

A little grumpy...

Day 2 was literally about survival. Shelter, food, sleep. We were lacking all 3 and the Indians took full advantage of that. We have booked the next month of our journey with an Indian travel agent... big mistake? Probably. We were both in no state to be making big decisions but it happened and we will make the best of it.

I think we both want out of Delhi... quick. There is nothing for us here except millions of people and non stop horn honking. The city is so polluted there is not only a dense layer of smog outside, but inside. I have been to some polluted cities but I've never seen anything like this. I blow my nose and its black, if a car passes my eyes sting from the exhaust.

With all the discomfort aside, I think we are going to grow to love India. The crazy smells, the colors, the people. Ohhh the people. And boy do the people love us. Every single person stops and stares. People are constantly coming up to us trying to make conversation. They love my blonde hair and they love Kendricks height even more. Dozens of Indian men have approached him saying "wow man you have good height!" One guy even asked Kendrick what he should take for protein. These Indians, they are a different breed. Its pure entertainment.

No packs, no sleep, no place... no problem!

India welcomed us with open arms.... HA yeah right! We thought we were prepared for the worst but we weren't even close. We arrived in Delhi at 11:30 pm only to discover our backpacks were still in Amsterdam. We carried on light, and by light I mean a camera, a couple books and some tp. The airline assured us we would have our packs in 2 days. Hmmm only 2 days with no clothes, no toothbrush, no nothing... no big deal :)

I have to say I was blessed with something, and thats a talkitive boyfriend. There is not a shy bone in that kids body. Kendrick became bff's with this English tunnel engineer who works in Delhi and ended up saving our butts our first night in India. Gordan gave us tons of advise on the plane and offered us a ride to a guest house in the center of Delhi. Well his dirver never showed up (which is typical on Indian standards) and we rode around some alley ways in a taxi unable to find a place to stay. Needless to say we ended up "sleeping" in a random English guys (Gordon) servants room on a less than twin bed, while the howling street dogs sang us to sleep. Oh happy days! I am overwhelmed with excitement and wonder what kind of adventures tomorrow will bring. Oh India, how I love you already!