Ahh warm weather at last. We have finally reached the south after a rather comfortable 27 hour train ride from Delhi. Stepping off the train we were greeted with hot, humid air, a refreshing breeze, and the smell of coconut tanning oil. Palolem beach here we come! After a sticky hour bus ride to the beach we flipped off our sandles, buried our feet in the sand and marveled at the palm fringed paradise. We quickly found a suitable bamboo beach hut and within a half hour of our arrival we were popping the top of a refreshing, cold Kingfisher beer.
Goa is India's smallest state and is famous for its beaches. It is unlike any other place in India, in fact it doesn't feel as though you're even still in India. You might as well have stepped off the plane back into the western world. Skimpy bikinis were everywhere in sight. Booze and blonde hair were the norm and European accents and reggae music mixed with the sound of breaking waves. We love India and all, but Goa was just the break we needed.
After a couple days of endless lounging and body surfing we decided we need to step up the adventure and try out a new sport called canyoning. Simply put, canyoning is trekking through the jungle and finding waterfalls to jump off from. What you cant jump off from you abseil (or repel) down. Why not right? We were in the jungle of India so we might as well take advantage of every chance for excitement.
Mr. Emanual is by the craziest french man I have ever met. He stands about 5 feet 7 inches tall and has a stalky frame. His curly blonde hair is pulled back in a ponytail and look as though it hasn't been combed sense he arrived in India 15 years ago. He is the Goan Bear Gryls and his hobby's include catching poisonous snakes and kissing them in the head, pushing Asian tourists off waterfalls when he knows they can't swim, and sleeping in the jungle living off from delicious red ants. Mr. Manu was going to be our canyoning tour guide. My first thought was I don't think our travel insurance is going to cover this.
The next day we were thrown a waterproof backpack which included a wetsuit, a harness and a helmet and we set off for the jungle. Thank God Manu brought a chopping knife to clear a trail for us and protect us from the black panther we jumped. Once we got to the river the first couple jumps and abseils were fairly easy but still exciting. The 3rd jump was around 30 feet and we only had a small pool that we could to jump into, avoiding a huge rock and the waterfall that we were jumping off from. Naturally I was feeling some small butterfly's. I had jumped from 30 feet many times but I always had a huge, deep lake below me, not some small pool. Right in the middle of a deep inhale I was pushed from the cliff by none other than my friggin guide! Don't worry... I lived :)
The rest of the day was full of similar excitement. Manu caught a water snake that was poisonous, but there was no need to be afraid because it was still a baby and you could live for 24 hours if it happened to bite you. Our friend Dave was extremely scared to abseil down the 115 foot waterfall so instead of giving him words of encouragement, our guide flapped his arms and made chicken noises. As a whole the canyoning trip blew us away and was by far the coolest thing we had done in India so far. We were exhausted by the time we reached the jeep so we let our hair and wrinkled skin dry in the wind while we were pelted in the face by bugs. Yet another wonderful journey in incredible India!
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
The Snow Storm
Our main reason to go to Manali was to snowboard. We were practically missing a whole Maine winter (which believe it or not is one of our favorite times of the year) so what better place to fill that void than the Himalayan mountain range. We couldn't get the idea of a virgin powder expedition out of our heads and thought we might be gaining a once in a lifetime experience (not to mention it would be at a fraction of the U.S. cost). Our hopes were high on our arrival in Manali because there we massive snow covered peaks in every direction.
The next couple days we bounced around from tourist information shops to trekking and expedition companies. We were asking about the conditions at a nearby ski resort called Solong Nallah. We were getting mixed reviews, most of them negitive. How can we be in the worlds highest mountain range in the middle of the winter and there not be any snow on the only ski resort in the state? We had to remind ourselves that yes we were still in India and nothing is ever what it seems. Taking matters into our own hands we planned a day trip to Solong to see for ourselves. The next morning we crammed ourselves into an overcrowded minibus (and by overcrowded I mean a bus that is meant to uncomfortably seat 20 passengers, had 40 plus in it) and arrived in Solong to feast our eyes on the muddy trails and the green grass. That's right no snow at all... you couldn't even tell it was winter. Slightly disappointed, we decided to enjoy the scenery and walk the 13km back to town along the breathtaking Beas river.
Arriving back at town we caught word of "a chance of snow" in the next couple days. The online weather report listed 1-3 inches but 1-3 inches in lower elevation could mean a foot or more up higher. With time on our side (and a $2 per night room doesn't hurt) we waited for the flurries.
Two days later the rain came. Heavy downpours mixed with thunder and lightning came crashing down for 8 hours straight. These monsoon-like rains took the power with them and left us reading in our room by candlelight. Later that night a group of foreigners gathered around our room for a little late night BBQ. Why not right? We sat and talked and watched the rain slowly turn to snow. The snowflakes were as big as cotton balls and they quickly turned the dreary night into a white dreamland. I had never seen anything like it. My body rushed with excitement. Two of the foreigners were witnessing their first snowfall and I was thinking to myself "it doesn't get any better than this girls."
The next morning I jumped out of bed at the first sight of dawn and what awaited for me outside was unbelievable. Three plus feet of fresh white stuff. "Perfect snowball snow" is what we would call in in Maine, and it was still spilling out of the sky. We could have never imagine the events that were about to take place over the next 3 days...
To be continued...
The next couple days we bounced around from tourist information shops to trekking and expedition companies. We were asking about the conditions at a nearby ski resort called Solong Nallah. We were getting mixed reviews, most of them negitive. How can we be in the worlds highest mountain range in the middle of the winter and there not be any snow on the only ski resort in the state? We had to remind ourselves that yes we were still in India and nothing is ever what it seems. Taking matters into our own hands we planned a day trip to Solong to see for ourselves. The next morning we crammed ourselves into an overcrowded minibus (and by overcrowded I mean a bus that is meant to uncomfortably seat 20 passengers, had 40 plus in it) and arrived in Solong to feast our eyes on the muddy trails and the green grass. That's right no snow at all... you couldn't even tell it was winter. Slightly disappointed, we decided to enjoy the scenery and walk the 13km back to town along the breathtaking Beas river.
Arriving back at town we caught word of "a chance of snow" in the next couple days. The online weather report listed 1-3 inches but 1-3 inches in lower elevation could mean a foot or more up higher. With time on our side (and a $2 per night room doesn't hurt) we waited for the flurries.
Two days later the rain came. Heavy downpours mixed with thunder and lightning came crashing down for 8 hours straight. These monsoon-like rains took the power with them and left us reading in our room by candlelight. Later that night a group of foreigners gathered around our room for a little late night BBQ. Why not right? We sat and talked and watched the rain slowly turn to snow. The snowflakes were as big as cotton balls and they quickly turned the dreary night into a white dreamland. I had never seen anything like it. My body rushed with excitement. Two of the foreigners were witnessing their first snowfall and I was thinking to myself "it doesn't get any better than this girls."
The next morning I jumped out of bed at the first sight of dawn and what awaited for me outside was unbelievable. Three plus feet of fresh white stuff. "Perfect snowball snow" is what we would call in in Maine, and it was still spilling out of the sky. We could have never imagine the events that were about to take place over the next 3 days...
To be continued...
Gold
the temples
the shimmer in the sand
the hearts of the people
the rings on their hand
bangles decorating every wrist
the contrast on dark skin
sari's twinkling in the sun
karma preventing every sin
India is gold everywhere you look
outlining scripture and every holy book
how a country so poor can represent such precious metal
happiness is the future on which their simple live settle
the shimmer in the sand
the hearts of the people
the rings on their hand
bangles decorating every wrist
the contrast on dark skin
sari's twinkling in the sun
karma preventing every sin
India is gold everywhere you look
outlining scripture and every holy book
how a country so poor can represent such precious metal
happiness is the future on which their simple live settle
When a good man becomes great :)
Most people go through an important change in their 20's. The searching, learning, experimenting, and living starts to come together and your individual is found. Life starts to make sense and you purpose becomes clear. Your direction and motives are far less selfish and a different sort of love emerges from you soul. You start to understand yourself and your emotions and moods. Compassion, forgiveness and acceptance come easier and you feel yourself being, well, happy :) This process can be brought upon by relationships, love, or life experiences, or like with myself, with all three.
This trip has been a great personal and spiritual growth journey for me. I've learned a lot about myself and have developed strategies and awareness to improve upon my flaws. I've really developed a love for myself and I am proud of the woman I have become. I credit the majority of that to my soul mate, Kendrick. He has really taught me so much about myself and he completely brings out the best in me. He minimizes my weaknesses and enhances my strengths. He brings out a great confidence in me and together we could conquer the world. Perhaps you could say we have already begun to do just that.
The past couple weeks I have noticed this overwhelming genuine kindness coming from Kendrick. He is just radiating love. Not just toward himself or me, but toward every man, woman, and child he comes in contact with. India has brought out his pure heart of gold. The random acts of kindness are endless and he lights up with a huge smile at every stranger that makes eye contact with him. The cocky, tough guy image had completely vanished. He is protective but not aggressive or dominate in any way. Kendrick has this strong positive aura radiating from him like a single candle lighting an entire room. His expressive eyes and goofy smile make you feel warm and fuzzy and at ease in any situation. He is a true diamond in the rough and I couldn't feel luckier to be his life companion and best friend.
We both have benefited so much from this trip and from each other. We have built a strong foundation full of love and respect and we can't wait to come home and spread what we have learned into all the other relationships in our lives. We want to thank all of you for following our journey and sending your love and best wishes. We have one more part of our trip to conquer and it is waiting for us in the Himalayas in Nepal. After that we will travel back to our favorite place in the world... MAINE! We love and miss you all and we can't wait to see your smiles when we arrive home.
This trip has been a great personal and spiritual growth journey for me. I've learned a lot about myself and have developed strategies and awareness to improve upon my flaws. I've really developed a love for myself and I am proud of the woman I have become. I credit the majority of that to my soul mate, Kendrick. He has really taught me so much about myself and he completely brings out the best in me. He minimizes my weaknesses and enhances my strengths. He brings out a great confidence in me and together we could conquer the world. Perhaps you could say we have already begun to do just that.
The past couple weeks I have noticed this overwhelming genuine kindness coming from Kendrick. He is just radiating love. Not just toward himself or me, but toward every man, woman, and child he comes in contact with. India has brought out his pure heart of gold. The random acts of kindness are endless and he lights up with a huge smile at every stranger that makes eye contact with him. The cocky, tough guy image had completely vanished. He is protective but not aggressive or dominate in any way. Kendrick has this strong positive aura radiating from him like a single candle lighting an entire room. His expressive eyes and goofy smile make you feel warm and fuzzy and at ease in any situation. He is a true diamond in the rough and I couldn't feel luckier to be his life companion and best friend.
We both have benefited so much from this trip and from each other. We have built a strong foundation full of love and respect and we can't wait to come home and spread what we have learned into all the other relationships in our lives. We want to thank all of you for following our journey and sending your love and best wishes. We have one more part of our trip to conquer and it is waiting for us in the Himalayas in Nepal. After that we will travel back to our favorite place in the world... MAINE! We love and miss you all and we can't wait to see your smiles when we arrive home.
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Sulfur Hot Springs
One of the most moving and personal experiences I have had yet in India is bathing in the hot springs amongst Indian women. It's strange how such small day to day experiences can have an enormous impact on your life.
The female body is sacred in India. They do everything they can to cover their bodies and sometimes will be married for years before even their husbands see them nude. I didn't know what to expect entering in the hot springs. The female section was not visible from the outside so I was unsure of the social norm on bathing apparel. Was a western 2 piece bathing suit acceptable or did I need to be fully clothed? As I entered the hot spring I couldn't believe my eyes. There were about a dozen nude women, all shapes, sizes and ages, laughing and slashing about, scrubbing each others backs and just having a grand old time. I had never seen Indian women in this light before. They had completely let loose and were acting almost European, going without shame or insecurity with their naked bodies. The energy reminded me of an American beauty salon. I couldn't understand what they were saying but I could tell they were gossiping about everything and everyone. A huge smile dominated my face. It made me so happy to see that these Indian women could have a moment in their day to be unglued from their societies social restrictions and just do and say whatever they like. Children were running about, old women were dying the silver out of their hair with some homemade concoction, and women were sharing their personal herbal skin remedies. I was welcomed as one of them, I didn't feel foreign at all. They made space for me and immediately starting splashing water on my back to help begin my bathing process.
They didn't stare st me as I thought they would. I couldn't help but stare and they didn't seem to mind. Himalayan women are some of the most beautiful people I have ever seen. They are this tribal Indian/Chinese mix and they ended up with the best genes from both races. Their almond shaped eyes are darkly lined with long, black lashes and they just pierce you with kindness. They are built and rugged yet completely feminine. They have absolutely flawless skin no matter what age they are, and their long, black silky hair reaches past their butt. Their faces and bodies are decorated in simple gold and wool jewelry. They are strong, independent and hard working and I envied their confidence completely.
Bathing with those women in the hot springs day after day I felt my attitude and self image shifting. Being a young woman growing up in American culture you have societal pressures placed on your body image. I never thought of myself as being insecure about my image but I found myself subconsciously judging others. Not on purpose, but just as a result of our societies labels on beauty. I always wanted children, a lot of them, but I did worry about the toll child baring would take on my body. What I saw in those hot springs was pure, natural, unmanipulated beauty. Everyone of them was perfect and there was not even a glimpse of judgment or shame. It was so inspiring and erased and fear of aging I may have had. Their confidence was beautiful, their smiles were beautiful, the love in their eyes was beautiful, and every curve on their body was absolutely beautiful!
The female body is sacred in India. They do everything they can to cover their bodies and sometimes will be married for years before even their husbands see them nude. I didn't know what to expect entering in the hot springs. The female section was not visible from the outside so I was unsure of the social norm on bathing apparel. Was a western 2 piece bathing suit acceptable or did I need to be fully clothed? As I entered the hot spring I couldn't believe my eyes. There were about a dozen nude women, all shapes, sizes and ages, laughing and slashing about, scrubbing each others backs and just having a grand old time. I had never seen Indian women in this light before. They had completely let loose and were acting almost European, going without shame or insecurity with their naked bodies. The energy reminded me of an American beauty salon. I couldn't understand what they were saying but I could tell they were gossiping about everything and everyone. A huge smile dominated my face. It made me so happy to see that these Indian women could have a moment in their day to be unglued from their societies social restrictions and just do and say whatever they like. Children were running about, old women were dying the silver out of their hair with some homemade concoction, and women were sharing their personal herbal skin remedies. I was welcomed as one of them, I didn't feel foreign at all. They made space for me and immediately starting splashing water on my back to help begin my bathing process.
They didn't stare st me as I thought they would. I couldn't help but stare and they didn't seem to mind. Himalayan women are some of the most beautiful people I have ever seen. They are this tribal Indian/Chinese mix and they ended up with the best genes from both races. Their almond shaped eyes are darkly lined with long, black lashes and they just pierce you with kindness. They are built and rugged yet completely feminine. They have absolutely flawless skin no matter what age they are, and their long, black silky hair reaches past their butt. Their faces and bodies are decorated in simple gold and wool jewelry. They are strong, independent and hard working and I envied their confidence completely.
Bathing with those women in the hot springs day after day I felt my attitude and self image shifting. Being a young woman growing up in American culture you have societal pressures placed on your body image. I never thought of myself as being insecure about my image but I found myself subconsciously judging others. Not on purpose, but just as a result of our societies labels on beauty. I always wanted children, a lot of them, but I did worry about the toll child baring would take on my body. What I saw in those hot springs was pure, natural, unmanipulated beauty. Everyone of them was perfect and there was not even a glimpse of judgment or shame. It was so inspiring and erased and fear of aging I may have had. Their confidence was beautiful, their smiles were beautiful, the love in their eyes was beautiful, and every curve on their body was absolutely beautiful!
Manali
Manali is a small Indian town tucked away in the massive Indian Himalaya's. If we were feeling any sort of homesickness it was swept away by the magnificent beauty that surrounded this town. Kendrick and I still think that Maine is the greatest place on Earth, but Manali just might be second best. It reminded us of home with its laid back vibe, cool, crisp mountain air, and rugged terrain. Everyone seemed to be working hard. The women had children strapped to their backs while they carried heavy stones up from the river. You were always greeted with a smile and rarely heckled. There was also a sense of pride in personal accomplishment we had yet to see in the Indian people. We immediately felt at home and it was in Manali that we no longer felt like we were traveling in India, but we were now living in India.
After a couple nights of staying in the main town of Manali we decided to pack up and move deeper into the woods to a near by village about 3km away. We found a small guesthouse to stay in for 100rs a night (about $2). Our room was perfect- we opened the door to be engulfed by massive snow covered mountains and we were 10 steps away from natural sulfur hot springs bubbling from the Earth. I could have moved in right then and there and made that guesthouse my home :)
After a couple nights of staying in the main town of Manali we decided to pack up and move deeper into the woods to a near by village about 3km away. We found a small guesthouse to stay in for 100rs a night (about $2). Our room was perfect- we opened the door to be engulfed by massive snow covered mountains and we were 10 steps away from natural sulfur hot springs bubbling from the Earth. I could have moved in right then and there and made that guesthouse my home :)
Narinder Singh
Chandigrah is a "modern" Indian city serving as a transportation hub to other Indian Himalayan destinations. Most backpackers don't stop in Chandigrah because by Indian standards its expensive and there isn't a whole lot to see. We chose a one night stay in Chandigrah because I wanted to see the fascinating rock garden. Karma seemed to be working in our favor because we were blessed by bumping into Mr. Narinder Singh. At first you might think of Mr. Narinder as just another heckling Indian but there was something more about his kindness that made us disregard our Indian generalizations and trust this old man.
Born in 1936 Narinder is 74 years old. The average Indian barely makes it to 60 so Narinder was eating his veggies and practicing his yoga. You couldn't help but love his charismatic energy, toothless smile, bottle cap glasses, and tightly tied purple turban representing his sic religion. He walked at the pace of a wall street businessman and was as recognized as Brad Pitt.
When we first met Narinder when we were looking for a place to stay. Overtired from another hellish train ride and sore from carrying our packs around town we weren't giving him much of a chance. After his first presentation of an information booklet and a generous favor of writing in his notebook filled of hundreds of letters from foreign tourists, we agreed to meet him for tea at the bus stand later that night.
After only a couple minutes of sipping chai with this old man we realized we had been blessed by the tourist Gods. He pulled out article after article that had been written about him over the years. The articles were about Narinder's so called "hobby" of helping foreign tourists around Chandigrah while getting them the lowest price for everything they purchase. The cost of his services? The sheer pleasure and enjoyment he got out of putting a smile of the face of a foreign tourist. He was the first Indian we met that actually enjoyed helping us out at no cost or benefit to himself. The next day at 9am sharp he was at our doorstep overly excited to show us his city. He showed us where to buy the cheapest bus tickets, the cheapest beer, got us free admission to the rock garden, presented us with numerous gifts, all while teaching us Hindi on the way. He also managed to slip in a quick visit to the town's Bollywood office where they tried to recruit us to be in the next big Bollywood film. At the end of the day we were exhausted. We had seen more of Chandigrah then perhaps we wanted but we were entertained by our new friend. Unsure of what I should do with the numerous gifts I had received (an information booklet, a satchel, a guava, a banana, a pink KFC balloon, and an orange) I made one gift presentation of my own- an American one dollar bill :) At 8pm we were shown to our bus and just like that Narinder Singh left our lives just as fast as he came. We were touched by this old Indian man, he left his footstep in our hearts and a smile on our faces.
Born in 1936 Narinder is 74 years old. The average Indian barely makes it to 60 so Narinder was eating his veggies and practicing his yoga. You couldn't help but love his charismatic energy, toothless smile, bottle cap glasses, and tightly tied purple turban representing his sic religion. He walked at the pace of a wall street businessman and was as recognized as Brad Pitt.
When we first met Narinder when we were looking for a place to stay. Overtired from another hellish train ride and sore from carrying our packs around town we weren't giving him much of a chance. After his first presentation of an information booklet and a generous favor of writing in his notebook filled of hundreds of letters from foreign tourists, we agreed to meet him for tea at the bus stand later that night.
After only a couple minutes of sipping chai with this old man we realized we had been blessed by the tourist Gods. He pulled out article after article that had been written about him over the years. The articles were about Narinder's so called "hobby" of helping foreign tourists around Chandigrah while getting them the lowest price for everything they purchase. The cost of his services? The sheer pleasure and enjoyment he got out of putting a smile of the face of a foreign tourist. He was the first Indian we met that actually enjoyed helping us out at no cost or benefit to himself. The next day at 9am sharp he was at our doorstep overly excited to show us his city. He showed us where to buy the cheapest bus tickets, the cheapest beer, got us free admission to the rock garden, presented us with numerous gifts, all while teaching us Hindi on the way. He also managed to slip in a quick visit to the town's Bollywood office where they tried to recruit us to be in the next big Bollywood film. At the end of the day we were exhausted. We had seen more of Chandigrah then perhaps we wanted but we were entertained by our new friend. Unsure of what I should do with the numerous gifts I had received (an information booklet, a satchel, a guava, a banana, a pink KFC balloon, and an orange) I made one gift presentation of my own- an American one dollar bill :) At 8pm we were shown to our bus and just like that Narinder Singh left our lives just as fast as he came. We were touched by this old Indian man, he left his footstep in our hearts and a smile on our faces.
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