One of the most moving and personal experiences I have had yet in India is bathing in the hot springs amongst Indian women. It's strange how such small day to day experiences can have an enormous impact on your life.
The female body is sacred in India. They do everything they can to cover their bodies and sometimes will be married for years before even their husbands see them nude. I didn't know what to expect entering in the hot springs. The female section was not visible from the outside so I was unsure of the social norm on bathing apparel. Was a western 2 piece bathing suit acceptable or did I need to be fully clothed? As I entered the hot spring I couldn't believe my eyes. There were about a dozen nude women, all shapes, sizes and ages, laughing and slashing about, scrubbing each others backs and just having a grand old time. I had never seen Indian women in this light before. They had completely let loose and were acting almost European, going without shame or insecurity with their naked bodies. The energy reminded me of an American beauty salon. I couldn't understand what they were saying but I could tell they were gossiping about everything and everyone. A huge smile dominated my face. It made me so happy to see that these Indian women could have a moment in their day to be unglued from their societies social restrictions and just do and say whatever they like. Children were running about, old women were dying the silver out of their hair with some homemade concoction, and women were sharing their personal herbal skin remedies. I was welcomed as one of them, I didn't feel foreign at all. They made space for me and immediately starting splashing water on my back to help begin my bathing process.
They didn't stare st me as I thought they would. I couldn't help but stare and they didn't seem to mind. Himalayan women are some of the most beautiful people I have ever seen. They are this tribal Indian/Chinese mix and they ended up with the best genes from both races. Their almond shaped eyes are darkly lined with long, black lashes and they just pierce you with kindness. They are built and rugged yet completely feminine. They have absolutely flawless skin no matter what age they are, and their long, black silky hair reaches past their butt. Their faces and bodies are decorated in simple gold and wool jewelry. They are strong, independent and hard working and I envied their confidence completely.
Bathing with those women in the hot springs day after day I felt my attitude and self image shifting. Being a young woman growing up in American culture you have societal pressures placed on your body image. I never thought of myself as being insecure about my image but I found myself subconsciously judging others. Not on purpose, but just as a result of our societies labels on beauty. I always wanted children, a lot of them, but I did worry about the toll child baring would take on my body. What I saw in those hot springs was pure, natural, unmanipulated beauty. Everyone of them was perfect and there was not even a glimpse of judgment or shame. It was so inspiring and erased and fear of aging I may have had. Their confidence was beautiful, their smiles were beautiful, the love in their eyes was beautiful, and every curve on their body was absolutely beautiful!
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Manali
Manali is a small Indian town tucked away in the massive Indian Himalaya's. If we were feeling any sort of homesickness it was swept away by the magnificent beauty that surrounded this town. Kendrick and I still think that Maine is the greatest place on Earth, but Manali just might be second best. It reminded us of home with its laid back vibe, cool, crisp mountain air, and rugged terrain. Everyone seemed to be working hard. The women had children strapped to their backs while they carried heavy stones up from the river. You were always greeted with a smile and rarely heckled. There was also a sense of pride in personal accomplishment we had yet to see in the Indian people. We immediately felt at home and it was in Manali that we no longer felt like we were traveling in India, but we were now living in India.
After a couple nights of staying in the main town of Manali we decided to pack up and move deeper into the woods to a near by village about 3km away. We found a small guesthouse to stay in for 100rs a night (about $2). Our room was perfect- we opened the door to be engulfed by massive snow covered mountains and we were 10 steps away from natural sulfur hot springs bubbling from the Earth. I could have moved in right then and there and made that guesthouse my home :)
After a couple nights of staying in the main town of Manali we decided to pack up and move deeper into the woods to a near by village about 3km away. We found a small guesthouse to stay in for 100rs a night (about $2). Our room was perfect- we opened the door to be engulfed by massive snow covered mountains and we were 10 steps away from natural sulfur hot springs bubbling from the Earth. I could have moved in right then and there and made that guesthouse my home :)
Narinder Singh
Chandigrah is a "modern" Indian city serving as a transportation hub to other Indian Himalayan destinations. Most backpackers don't stop in Chandigrah because by Indian standards its expensive and there isn't a whole lot to see. We chose a one night stay in Chandigrah because I wanted to see the fascinating rock garden. Karma seemed to be working in our favor because we were blessed by bumping into Mr. Narinder Singh. At first you might think of Mr. Narinder as just another heckling Indian but there was something more about his kindness that made us disregard our Indian generalizations and trust this old man.
Born in 1936 Narinder is 74 years old. The average Indian barely makes it to 60 so Narinder was eating his veggies and practicing his yoga. You couldn't help but love his charismatic energy, toothless smile, bottle cap glasses, and tightly tied purple turban representing his sic religion. He walked at the pace of a wall street businessman and was as recognized as Brad Pitt.
When we first met Narinder when we were looking for a place to stay. Overtired from another hellish train ride and sore from carrying our packs around town we weren't giving him much of a chance. After his first presentation of an information booklet and a generous favor of writing in his notebook filled of hundreds of letters from foreign tourists, we agreed to meet him for tea at the bus stand later that night.
After only a couple minutes of sipping chai with this old man we realized we had been blessed by the tourist Gods. He pulled out article after article that had been written about him over the years. The articles were about Narinder's so called "hobby" of helping foreign tourists around Chandigrah while getting them the lowest price for everything they purchase. The cost of his services? The sheer pleasure and enjoyment he got out of putting a smile of the face of a foreign tourist. He was the first Indian we met that actually enjoyed helping us out at no cost or benefit to himself. The next day at 9am sharp he was at our doorstep overly excited to show us his city. He showed us where to buy the cheapest bus tickets, the cheapest beer, got us free admission to the rock garden, presented us with numerous gifts, all while teaching us Hindi on the way. He also managed to slip in a quick visit to the town's Bollywood office where they tried to recruit us to be in the next big Bollywood film. At the end of the day we were exhausted. We had seen more of Chandigrah then perhaps we wanted but we were entertained by our new friend. Unsure of what I should do with the numerous gifts I had received (an information booklet, a satchel, a guava, a banana, a pink KFC balloon, and an orange) I made one gift presentation of my own- an American one dollar bill :) At 8pm we were shown to our bus and just like that Narinder Singh left our lives just as fast as he came. We were touched by this old Indian man, he left his footstep in our hearts and a smile on our faces.
Born in 1936 Narinder is 74 years old. The average Indian barely makes it to 60 so Narinder was eating his veggies and practicing his yoga. You couldn't help but love his charismatic energy, toothless smile, bottle cap glasses, and tightly tied purple turban representing his sic religion. He walked at the pace of a wall street businessman and was as recognized as Brad Pitt.
When we first met Narinder when we were looking for a place to stay. Overtired from another hellish train ride and sore from carrying our packs around town we weren't giving him much of a chance. After his first presentation of an information booklet and a generous favor of writing in his notebook filled of hundreds of letters from foreign tourists, we agreed to meet him for tea at the bus stand later that night.
After only a couple minutes of sipping chai with this old man we realized we had been blessed by the tourist Gods. He pulled out article after article that had been written about him over the years. The articles were about Narinder's so called "hobby" of helping foreign tourists around Chandigrah while getting them the lowest price for everything they purchase. The cost of his services? The sheer pleasure and enjoyment he got out of putting a smile of the face of a foreign tourist. He was the first Indian we met that actually enjoyed helping us out at no cost or benefit to himself. The next day at 9am sharp he was at our doorstep overly excited to show us his city. He showed us where to buy the cheapest bus tickets, the cheapest beer, got us free admission to the rock garden, presented us with numerous gifts, all while teaching us Hindi on the way. He also managed to slip in a quick visit to the town's Bollywood office where they tried to recruit us to be in the next big Bollywood film. At the end of the day we were exhausted. We had seen more of Chandigrah then perhaps we wanted but we were entertained by our new friend. Unsure of what I should do with the numerous gifts I had received (an information booklet, a satchel, a guava, a banana, a pink KFC balloon, and an orange) I made one gift presentation of my own- an American one dollar bill :) At 8pm we were shown to our bus and just like that Narinder Singh left our lives just as fast as he came. We were touched by this old Indian man, he left his footstep in our hearts and a smile on our faces.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
We are safe :)
Sorry there have not been any new posts. We have been stuck in Manali for over a week now because of a huge snow storm. The snow was very wet and heavy which has been very problematic and caused many avalanches that have blocked the roads. We were stuck in a small village about 3km outside of Manali with no power and no heat. We were able to ski into town to get food and warmer clothing. We will be posting about our adventures soon. I just wanted to let everyone know we were safe and despite the conditions we are having a great time. Talk to you soon :)
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